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Everything About Pet Animals

When it comes to outright killing people, which creatures come out on top? From snakes to bugs to killer crocs, here are the most dangerous animals in the world. Many humans actually tend to be pretty fond of elephants, but don't go thinking for a second that they're as cuddly as you may think. The truth is, wherever elephants coexist with humans, there's bound to be conflict.

According to National Geographic, elephants kill around 500 people every year, and they're becoming more and more aggressive as more human beings encroach on their territory. This is a particularly difficult problem because the rising human population in countries like Namibia means that poor farmers are having to establish new fields on lands occupied by hungry elephants. Of course, when elephants destroy a farmer's field, that farmer is likely to fight back with guns and poison.

The World's Most Dangerous Animal


But elephants are intelligent animals, and some biologists think they may actually be responding to the killings of herd members with a form of post-traumatic stress disorder. As a result, adults might be driven to become more aggressive as a response to the breakdown of their herd structure, and younger elephants may be learning that aggressive behavior, too. In fact, one researcher has said that elephants in a region of Kenya are becoming aggressive to the locals but not to tourists, because they recognize the difference between the humans who regularly hunt them and those who don't.

People might like to imagine sharks as terrifying, people-hungry killers, but most shark attacks are just mistakes - usually, a shark that attacks a human only does so because they think that human is actually another animal. Once that shark realizes the mistake it's made, there's a good chance it's going to swim away. Crocodiles, on the other hand, don't really care what they're eating, as long as they're eating. According to Business Insider, crocodiles kill around a thousand people every year, and they don't just kill for food, either.


Because they're extremely territorial animals, there's a good chance a croc is going to attack you just because you looked at it the wrong way. Of course, they can also move between land and water, which means they can easily run up on shore, grab you, and then pull you down to drown you in the water, if the blood loss doesn't get you first, that is. “You're gonna need a bigger boat." Precise numbers of hippo-related deaths are difficult to come by. 2,900 a year is a number you hear a lot, for example, but there doesn't appear to be much basis for it. According to some sources, the number is probably closer to 500.

What is certain, however, is that hippos are dangerous, and they do kill people. Sometimes, one hippo can kill large numbers of people in a single incident. For example, in 2014 a hippo attacked a boat near Niger'scapital of Niamey and killed one adult and 12 children between the ages of 12 and 13. The victims drowned when the enraged hippo flipped their boat over. Today, National Geographic maintains that the hippo is the most dangerous mammal in Africa. Think of it this way: in some cases, they've been known to attack and kill crocodiles.

That's what you're dealing with, here. Although some deadly animals can seem cuddly on the outside, others have no problem showing off just how dangerous they can be. Take scorpions, for example. They're basically just just flat, ugly spiders with stingers. Who's going to mess with that? But not all scorpions are especially dangerous. In the U.S., the worst kind is the Arizona bark scorpion, which lives mostly in Arizona and its adjoining states.

This particular species stings people all the time and is potentially deadly, but there's an effective antivenom available, and in Arizona, no one has died from a bark scorpion sting since 1948. Other scorpions, however, are a whole lot worse. According to Medscape, scorpions are responsible for around 3,250 deaths annually, including around a thousand people a year in Mexico alone. The world's deadliest scorpions are the fat-tailed ones from the genus Androctonus. And the worst of those? That'll be the Tunisian fat-tailed scorpion, which lives in North Africa, is nearly four inches long, and is responsible for 90 percent of scorpion-related fatalities in the region. Incidentally, it also made the Guinness Book of World Records as the most venomous scorpion in the world. It is not your friend. When you think about killer insects, you probably just imagine swarms of bugs flying around in some rural area of a third world country.

But Americans have got their own problems with creepy crawlies - and assassin bugs in particular, which are thought to be responsible for around 10,000 deaths a year. If you live in the southern half of the United States, you've definitely seen assassin bugs before. They're also called triatomine bugs, kissing bugs, or cone-nosed blood suckers. According to the CDC, you can find them under porches, in wood piles, in dog houses and chicken coops, and even under cement. Assassin bugs feed on blood, and they carry a parasite called Trypanosoma cruzi, which can only enter a human body if the assassin bug happens to be defecating while it's biting you. If you rub or scratch the wound and get fecal matter inside of it, or if you get it on your hands and rub your eyes, then the parasite will have a door into your body.

Once inside, it travels through the bloodstream to your heart, where it multiplies, eventually causing something known as Chagas disease. This is a nasty little infection that leads to heart disease and congestive cardiac failure. But here's the really terrifying part: the parasite can linger in your body for years, and you may have no symptoms until you get to the advanced stages of the disease, when it's too late to seek treatment. In other words, Chagas disease can be cured, but only before you spot its symptoms. The world may be full of dangerous animals, but at least there's one kind you can always count on to be your friend.

Right? "It's not a monster, it’s just a doggy!” Okay, at first glance things don't actually look that bad. In the United States, 30 to 50 people die every year from dog bites. And while that may be a fairly significant number, it's not anywhere near as bad as what you see with some of the other deadly animals out there. Once you get outside the U.S., however, things become a lot worse. A significant number of deaths from dog bites occur outside the United States, because it's not typically the bite itself that kills the person - it's the disease transmitted by the bite. Fortunately, in the western world, we've mostly eliminated dog rabies, but in underdeveloped nations, rabies kills around 59,000 people every year.

According to The New York Times, 99 percent of people killed by the disease got it from a dog. Maybe it's not such a great idea to put off Fido's rabies shot after all, huh? Tapeworms and roundworms are collectively responsible for about 5,000 deaths per year. According to the CDC, the larval cysts of the tapeworm cause a parasitic tissue infection called cysticercosis. Sometimes, they can cause neurocysticercosis, which is what happens when the larval cysts implant themselves in your brain - and that can happen quite easily if you swallow the eggs found in the feces of an infected human.

Now, cysticercosis kills roughly 700 people a year, but ascariasis - a disease caused by roundworms — is much, much worse, claiming at least 4,500 lives a year. It's easier to get than cysticercosis, too, because the eggs of the roundworm can be found in any kind of dirt - especially if humans have been defecating nearby. That's probably why ascariasis is uncommon in the U.S, since the miracle of indoor plumbing has pretty much eliminated the need for humans to do that. Anyway, ascariasis can cause protein-energy malnutrition and eventually death. In fact, it's thought that ascariasis-related deaths may be underreported because intestinal infections are often not counted as the cause of malnutrition deaths.

So the true number might be much, much higher. Anyone could make a fair guess that snakes would be counted as one of the world's deadliest animals - and they'd be right, too. "Snakes. Why did it have to be snakes?" According to The Telegraph, serpents cause close to 90,000 deaths every single year. Around 11,000 of these deaths happen in India, which has 52 species of venomous snakes alone. Of course, if it makes you feel any better, only four of them are what Toxicology Reports calls "venomous snakes of concern." Africa is also something of a hotbed for snake-related deaths.

The continent suffers around 20,000 every year, many of them perpetrated by the black mamba, which kills roughly 100 percent of the people it bites, unless those people happen to be very, very close to a vial of antivenom. But what's really frightening about all this is that those statistics are probably completely wrong, because snakebite deaths that happen in rural parts of underdeveloped nations often go unreported. So no matter how deadly you think snakes are - well, there's a good chance they're so much worse. One thing you might have noticed by now is that Africa is home to a lot of dangerous animals.

But it's not over yet, folks. Say hello to the tsetse fly, a tiny little critter that also happens to transmit one of the deadliest diseases in the world. According to Access to Medicines, Human African trypanosomiasis is the parasitic disease spread by this particular biting bug. Commonly called sleeping sickness, the disease threatens 60 to 70 million people who live in sub-Saharan Africa. And don't let the benign-sounding name fool you, either. "Sleeping sickness" is a serious illness that very quickly progresses to something I cannot pronounce and coma, and almost always results in death. Untreated, the disease has a near-100 percent fatality rate, and like many other killers that strike in underdeveloped countries, the true death statistics are probably underreported - and may be anywhere from 50,000 to 500,000 people a year.

Okay, this one probably isn't going to come as much surprise. Look around you right now and there's a good chance you'll find yourself staring at the world's second most dangerous animal. According to the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime, human beings are responsible for 437,000 homicides every year. If you're being optimistic, that's just a little bit behind the larger estimate for sleeping sickness deaths, and if you want to be pessimistic, it's quite considerably ahead of the lower estimate. Of course, that number doesn't actually factor in things like car accidents and negligent stupidity, so the true number is actually much, much higher.

Regardless of whether human beings rank second or third on the list of the world's most dangerous animals, however, it's still pretty terrible that we have more to fear from each other than we do from creatures that are literally designed to kill things. Westerners have been more or less spared from the true evils of this particular animal, though they certainly haven't been spared from irritation. Yes, the world's most dangerous animal is the mosquito - that tiny, blood-sucking crasher of summer barbecues, that thing that seems to like you more than it likes anyone else. But these little bugs are far, far more than just a nuisance.

By some estimates, the mosquito has killed half of all the humans who've ever lived on planet Earth. According to Smithsonian, the annual death toll from the diseases transmitted by mosquitoes is roughly 725,000, and around 600,000 of those deaths are from malaria alone. And another 200 million people who have malaria become incapacitated by it, meaning malaria isn't just a killer of humans. It's also a killer of productivity and quality of life.

The World's Most Dangerous Animal

In this video, I share a simple potty training method that will completely change your life. Stick around. This video you don't want to miss. Up next, on Yeti's Place. To find the best tips and tricks for owning a Samoyed, be sure to hit the subscribe button. Click the notification bell and check out our links down below. A great way for you to begin potty training your puppy, is to feed them a great quality puppy food, at the exact same time every day. When your puppy finishes, bring them outside immediately.

Make it a party when they go potty where they're supposed to. Give your puppy a treat. It's great if you get into the excitement too. Be sure to yip yip along with your puppy when your puppy goes potty! Yeah, yip yip sweetie. Yeah, that's what I would do, when you would go potty outside, like a good boy when you were a puppy. I yip yip yip yip yipped! Potty training is fun. Poopy potty training, is even better.

How to Potty Train a Puppy | Simple Tips


Pawty! It takes time to potty train so be sure to have a lot of patience. Be observant and supervise your dog whenever they're inside playing, drinking water, eating their food, napping and awakening. If you're not in the same room with your puppy, be sure to put your puppy in a puppy playpen. Puppy play pens are larger areas then human baby play pens. When you let your puppy out of the puppy playpen, it's best if you carry your puppy outside if they're small enough. You don't want them to have an accident.

That's why carrying them outside, if you're able to, if they're small enough, where you can comfortably carry your puppy outside, that is always best. Puppies have to be taught where they can and can't go potty. You'll have to be consistent with the training. Your puppy has to be taught that your house, is also their house. It's not their poopy, potty stomping grounds. No going poopy and potty in the house.


No! Grroowwl. Thankfully, puppies don't like to go potty where they sleep. It'll take time for your puppy to learn your whole house, is their whole house, so they'll have accidents. Sometimes many accidents. Gate off areas to make their zone a little bit smaller. When you're not there to supervise, be sure to put your puppy in a small, gated area. Like in a puppy playpen, or in a crate. Don't leave them alone too long.

A half hour, to an hour, at the most, is always best for a little puppy. At the end of that time, bring them outside immediately. Puppies have tiny bladders, so it's important that you get them outside frequently and often. Puppies are little babies. Baby dogs, with tiny bladders. They can't hold it for very long. You wouldn't leave a human baby unsupervised, so why would you leave a little baby puppy unsupervised? Puppy playpens are great fits for you, when you need to spend time away. For example, running errands, or cleaning the house in another room. Remember to bring your puppy outside, right away.

The moment you let them out of their crate. Crates are.... Yeti, come here! Sweetie, you've gotta come over here. Come here. Crates are great for overnights and when you're not there to watch your puppy. Crates prevent your puppy from having accidents, because they won't go potty where they sleep. Crates should be big enough for your puppy to move around comfortably. Having a crate divider, is a great idea for your tiny puppy. They don't like to go potty where they sleep. You'll bring them right outside, right away, the moment you let them out of that crate. If they're small enough, picking them up and carrying them outside.

If they're too big to carry, you'll bring the leash with you. Then, you'll open up the crate, hook them up onto their leash right away and bring them outside immediately. Don't allow them to eat and drink water, until after they've been outside. Crates should be placed where the people are. For example, in the bedroom for nighttime sleeping. That way, your puppy gets to feel like they're a member of your family, because they are.

The amount of time your little puppy can spend comfortably in a crate, is equal to 1 hour, per month of age. For example, if they are 2 months of age, then you can comfortably leave them in the crate for 2 hours at a time. Remember, tiny bladders. They also don't go potty when you're holding them. So, if they're small enough and you're removing them from their crate, be sure to pick them up and carry them outside. Because, they won't go potty in the arms of the person who is holding them. Hold them a bunch and cuddle with them a bunch, because they grow so quickly. Yeti's chest, when he was 5 weeks old, was as big as my hand.... and now look at this.

My hand is as big as his snout. They grow fast. Be sure to savor those moments while they're so cute, little and cuddly. During the daytime, while playing with your fuzzy puppy, the moment they stop playing, bring them outside right away. Pick them up and carry them outside. They stop playing, because they have to go potty right away. And they will, if you don't get them outside, right away. Yeti had many accidents. When you're outside with your puppy, be sure to do your happy, puppy, poopy, pawty dance. Be sure to celebrate that moment they go potty, so that they know that this is the place where they go potty.

They go potty outside. Your fuzzy puppy will learn that outside is the place to go much more quickly if you celebrate. Sweetie, you are gonna get fat by eating so many treats. Now, occasionally your puppy will have an accident. Only get mad if you catch them in the act. Puppies don't understand human language, so don't get mad at them like you do at another human person, because they're not going to understand that. What you do, if you catch your puppy, in the act of going potty, is you look at them with a stern face and you furrow your brows together and you extend your shoulders out... You say, No! GRROOOOWLLLL!!!

You growl at them,in their language that they understand. You mix in a few no's, in with the growling. The moment you growl at a little puppy, they're gonna know that that means no, don't do that. And you're gonna pick them up right away and bring them outside, immediately. When they're naughty around their dog mothers, their mothers growl at them, when they're being naughty. So you too, should growl at your puppy, when your puppy is doing something that is undesirable. Only if catch them in the act of going potty in the house, should you do that. Immediately after growling and showing your teeth, pick your puppy up, if your puppy is small enough, carry them outside right away. The moment they go potty where they're supposed to go, congratulate them.

Be happy. Be thrilled. Give them lots of pets and have that poopy, potty, pawty dance. Now, if you don't catch them in the act of going potty where they're not supposed to go potty, don't fret about it. Just bring them outside right away and then clean it up, without making a big fuss. Because your puppy isn't going to remember what they did a few minutes before. But they know that they've been bad if you catch them in the act. If you don't catch them in the act, just be sure to pick your puppy up. Bring your puppy outside and congratulate them, when they go potty where they're supposed to. Feeding your puppy at the same time every day, helps eliminate some of those accidents, because you can get to know their potty schedule.

Their poopy and their potty schedule and it also helps to establish a good routine with your dog. So, immediately after they eat, the moment they stop crunching away, you'll pick them up, if they're small enough and you'll carry them outside. And you'll say good boy, Yeti. Good boy for going potty where you're supposed to go. That's such a good boy. If they have not finished their meal yet, but they start wandering away, that's your cue to bring them outside right away. Wandering away from their meal, is their signal that they have to go outside and go potty. When you come back inside, be sure to put their dog food up, so they can't get at it until it's their next time for eating. Always have their water out, but be observant.

Right away, after they finish drinking their water, you have to bring them outside. It takes time to train a Samoyed to go potty where they're supposed to go, so be patient. Talk to them in their dog language. Their yip yips and their ggrrrooolll's. If they have an accident and you catch them, be sure to use their language. GGGROOOWWWLLL! Puppies will eventually begin to understand human language, but not so much when they're little. Using puppy language also helps you and your puppy develop a good loving relationship.

How to Potty Train a Puppy | Simple Tips

10. West Highland White Terrier Terriers are generally known to be playful, energetic dogs, but there is a Terrier that is so playful that you can sense its whimsical nature in its name—the West Highland White Terrier. (Wow, that was a mouthful.) With their happy temperament and adorable expressions, Westies are born to have fun.

They typically get along well with all their human family members, not singling anyone out as their favorite, and they don’t mind sharing the house with other dogs and friendly felines. That said, a Terrier is a Terrier and they are wired to have a high prey drive. It is not recommended that a Westie live in a home where small animals, like rabbits, gerbils, or guinea pigs roam freely about. Most Westies come with an “on-off switch.”

Top Ten Most Playful Small Dogs Breeds


They have a calm, composed “indoor demeanor” and can hold down the fort while you’re at work or running errands, but when it’s time to romp in the backyard or dog park, they shift to their “outside demeanor” and become 100 watt balls of energy. And don’t worry, this breed is quite flexible when it comes to choosing a playtime activity. From a vigorous game of fetch, to hiking on a trail, to throwing chew toys around, or just running around the yard, they enjoy it all…Westies just wanna have fun!

9. Brussels Griffon The Brussels Griffon has been described as the dog with the “monkey face.” So, it’s only fitting that the favorite pastime of the Griffon is monkeying around. Its small, yet solid body type, agility and athleticism are physical attributes that make the Griffon as ready for play as larger dogs— but its curiosity, intelligence, and sense of humor take playtime to the next level for both its canine buds and you. Though they tend to be impatient, these fearless little dogs are well-suited to almost any activity. From hiking and jogging, to playing fetch, catch, or poker—not really, though their grumpy expression would be the ideal poker face—Griffons are perfectly comfortable as long as they’re where the action is.


These affectionate, sensitive pups get along well with all their human family, but will gravitate to particular person, so if you’re not “the one,” don’t take it personally…it’s not you it’s them. Griffons get along well with other animals, but are unaware of their size and may try to dominate much larger dogs, so keep a watchful eye during play dates. Fun Fact: Star Wars creator, George Lucas, modeled his adorable Ewok characters after the Brussels Griffon he had at the time. Does your dog have a favorite person or pet sibling?

8. Border Terrier Border Terriers are born to dig. These friendly, yet strong-willed busybodies were bred to burrow underground to chase rats and foxes. So, it’s only natural that their some of their favorite playtime activities involve excavation. One great way to keep your busy Border Terrier occupied is to invest in a sandbox, or section-off an area in the yard that is just for your furbaby. While your Border watches from a stationary position, bury a few toys or treats, then give them the go-ahead to dig up the riches.

 For a more challenging adventure, bury the booty when your little pirate isn’t looking. Another wonderful way to stimulate your Border Terrier and let them play on their natural instincts is through Earthdog trials held by local kennel clubs across the country. Dogs that hunt small prey, such as Terriers and Dachshunds, race through underground tunnels in search of quarry. Though each dog is evaluated for its hunting ability, it is not a competitive sport. Yes, Borders do enjoy standard dog games, like catch and tail chasing, but if you want your buddy to be happy and healthy, find a place where it can do what it was born to do…dig it?

7. Papillon Coming in at lucky number seven is the Papillon. This breed gets its name from the French word for “butterfly” because of its ears, which extend up and away from its head, like the wings of the graceful insect. But perhaps there is another reason the Papillon dog’s name fits it perfectly—it has a light, airy presence and playful spirit that is much like that of the butterfly. The Papillon is a toy Spaniel that makes a great companion, but will never be content as a lap dog. Instead of curling up next to you in front of the T.V., this smart, vivacious pup would rather chase balls, wrestle squeak toys, socialize with furry pals, or spend hours entertaining themselves by making up their own games.

They have a strong desire to please, which makes them highly trainable, and at playtime they’ll be eager to show off any tricks they’ve learned. If introduced at a young age, these “social butterflies,” typically to get along well with their pet siblings, but like other toy breeds, they have no awareness of their relative size and may try to bully dogs that are much larger than they are. Papillons make great family dogs, but if they feel they’re being mistreated or mishandled, they won’t hesitate to defend themselves, so they should be watched around small children.

6. Boston Terrier In the 19th century, the genteel, tuxedo coated Boston Terrier was referred to as the “little American gentleman,” but don’t get it twisted, this playful pup is as clownish as it is smooth. In order to stay out of trouble, the lively, intelligent Boston needs a lot of exercise and mental stimulation. Like most dogs, Bostons enjoy playing fetch, hiking, or going for a brisk walk or jog. Since they have a predilection for chewing objects, a showdown with a good chew toy is right up their alley. When properly acclimated, Bostons also enjoy aquatic activities, like retrieving balls from the water, and believe it not—swimming.

Bostons have an easygoing demeanor and a friendly face with large, wide-set eyes that say, “Come play with me,” but when it comes to their people, Bostons can be very territorial and aggressive with strangers and other pets. Early socialization, is key to having a Boston that gets along well with others—human, canine or non-canine.

5. Bichon Frise The Bichon Frise may look like a giant powder puff and have a frou frou name, but it’s more like a ball of fire, and is anything but frou frou when it’s time to play. Though known as a French dog, this small, merry, yet robust canine, once called the Tenerife, (after the largest of the Canary Islands) originated in the Mediterranean, where they sailed the waters with 13th century Spanish seafarers. The Renaissance ushered in a new era and a new name for the breed. It became popular in France among the aristocracy and was renamed the Bichon Frise, which loosely translates to “curly lap dog.” The little canine sailor that was once valued for its affinity for all things aquatic, was now kept as a companion dog, and was as prettied and pampered as the bourgeoisie, but to this day it still has the soul of a sailor.

Bichons love all types of games, but have a fondness for retrieving and, of course, water activities. Make the most of playtime for your Bichon by taking your fluffy friend to the beach, where you can try everything from surfing to water polo. Or you can simply initiate a round of…you guessed it—fetch! What does your dog enjoy more? Land-roving or water-based activities?

4. Fox Terrier “An idle mind is the devil’s workshop”—this saying applies to people, but it also applies to certain dog breeds, including the Fox Terrier. Like a typical Terrier, the Foxie is agile, energetic and loves to burrow. Combine these physical characteristics with an outgoing, intelligent, cocky personality, and you have the makings of a dog that is lovable, yet high-strung. If you have a Fox Terrier, be prepared—your compadre will require plenty of mental and physical stimulation to stay of trouble. Ball chasing, jogging, or playtime with doggy pals at the park are all great ways for your furbaby to burn off energy.

And yes, Earth trials and a sandbox or kiddie pool full of dirt will provide them with endless opportunities to get their dig on. Many Foxies also enjoy a brisk swim in the pool or ocean. It’s a great way for them to get ample exercise, while cooling off…especially during the “dog days” of summer. Though Fox Terriers are loyal and affectionate with their humans, they are quite scrappy and inclined to pick fights with other dogs. Early socialization is key to bringing up a well-adjusted pup that can hang out with the “cool kids.”

3. Corgi Who has a long body and short legs, but is as nimble and quick as “Jack” from the nursery rhymes? The Corgi, that’s who. The Corgi is a herding breed whose agility was once essential to avoid being trampled by cattle. Today, that same mercurial mobility, fearlessness, and alertness contribute to their playful nature. Corgis are very easy to make friends, both human and animal, so they never have a hard time finding someone to play with. Classic dog games like fetch and ball- chasing will keep your Corgi in great physical condition, but be sure to include activities that will keep your pal’s mind sharp, too.

You can get creative and invent your own games, like “hide and sniff.” Take a few of your dog’s favorite treats, along with a few miscellaneous items, and put them in the cups of a muffin tin. Place a tennis ball over each cup, and let your pup sniff out the goodies. Want to up the ante? Hide the treats around the house. Since Corgis are born herders, herding tests and trials are a fantastic way to let your dog do what comes naturally. The herding test is non-competitive and requires the dog to move livestock such as sheep, ducks, and cattle along courses of varying difficulty.

2. Jack Russell The aforementioned “nursery rhyme Jack” has nothing on our next breed, not even his name. The Jack Russell Terrier is a vivacious, fearless, intelligent breed that is small in stature but big in…well, everything else. This “go big or go home” personality and an abundance of unbridled energy is what makes the Russell so much fun when it’s time to play. Games like chase, fetch, and tug of war are all very physical games that will help your Russell burn off some of those energy reserves. Hide and seek is also a wonderful way to work their mental muscles, while wearing them down for a good long snooze.

Russells that are comfortable in water may enjoy swimming and dock diving—jumping into the water to retrieve a floating toy or other object. Just make sure that your pooch is acclimated to water. If he or she likes water but is not a “natural” swimmer use a life vest to train them. Russells get along well with people, but can be aggressive toward other dogs and small animals. Like several other diminutive pups, they are unaware of their relative size and the risk they take when trying to boss around a larger dog.

1. Cockapoo The foundation for a playful dog is a joyful dog. And no breed has the zest for life that the Cockpoo has. There are several reasons for the Cockapoo’s perpetual happiness. First of all, it is a mash-up of the Cocker Spaniel and the Poodle, two dogs known for their cheery temperaments. Secondly, the Cockapoo is a light shedder and ideal for people with allergies. And to top it all off, they’re so adorable, they can’t help but be tickled pink. Well, the last two reasons might not actually contribute to the Cockapoo’s sunny outlook, but they do contribute to its standing as one of the most popular hybrid dogs around.

Cockapoos love everybody and never meet a stranger. So when it’s time to play, all they have to do is look to the nearest person, pet or thing and let the good times roll. This breed is so easygoing and eager to please, that as long as they’re not being mistreated, they’re typically happy doing anything. From a strolling vigorously around the neighborhood, to rolling around in the grass, hunting for treasure, camping, and even shopping, it’s all fun and games to this happy-go-lucky furball. Yes, for all intents and purposes, the world is the Cockapoos playground—we just live in it! What are some creative activities that you’ve come up with for your dog’s playtime?

Top Ten Most Playful Small Dogs Breeds

Tweet Copyx I’m reviewing three brands of primer so you can pick the best one for getting your custom model horse ready for paint. They each have their pros and cons. I will also end the video with a few bonus brands you can consider. First up is the Rustoleum brand of primer. Rustoleum offers many different kinds of primers for different types of projects, and in different colors.

Primer Brands for Model Horse Customs


The specific type I’m reviewing in this video is the American Accents 2X Ultra Cover in red and white. Anytime I buy primers, I look for sandablity, which this primer definitely has. It won’t overly gum up on your sandpaper, or leave sticky residue behind when you sand it. I also look for good tooth, which this one has. It stays smooth, but not so smooth that your paint has nothing to grip. Unfortunately, this particular version of Rustoleum primer goes on very thick.


That can be nice when you need to fill imperfections, but it’s not great if you have fine details you want to preserve. It also limits how many coats you can apply before you lose detail. It’s not my favorite for stablemates or other minis at all. Finally, the white version of this primer did not spray consistently and required that I strip my test model. Krylon CoverMaxx was my go-to primer for a long time. It goes on very thin, holds detail, is smooth, and decent for sanding.

It also came in a good range of colors, from white, grey and red, perfect for model horses. However, now I have a hard time finding that particular version, what I often find instead is the ColorMaster. It’s not my favorite. It too goes on thin, but it’s hard to sand. In fact, it’s very gummy when sanding. I also find that it’s too smooth and doesn’t offer much tooth, which I find even more problematic as an airbrush artist.

If you can find the CoverMaxx, it’s a nice workhorse primer, especially for minis, but I wouldn’t really recommend the ColorMaster. This next one is an automotive primer, which I think is a godsend because not only are automotive products generally cheaper than hobby products, but they are great at preserving fine details. This is the Duplicolor Sandable primer. I love this primer. It goes on thin and preserves details wonderfully.

But my top favorite things about this primer are it’s perfect amount of tooth, right amount of smoothness and wide range of colors. It does cost a little more, but the results are so much better I feel it’s far worth the couple extra dollars. So my only real con is that it can be tricky to find it. Most stores carry the filler version, which I don’t recommend because it’s thicker. When you do find the sandable version, it’s not easy to find all the colors, especially rust and gray.

There are so many different kinds of primers out there, and I reviewed these three because they were either the easiest to find, or I felt the best options. But there are others that I haven’t gotten to try yet that are worth taking a look at yourself. Rustoleum makes an automotive primer as well that may be worth comparing to the Duplicolor Sandable primer.

Then there is the world of airbrush primers, from brands like Vallejo and Badger. I haven’t tried these either, but since you are running them through an airbrush, these could afford a lot more control over the spray intensity and what details you can preserve. Definitely worth a look for mini model horse artists. Hopefully this video helps you find your perfect primer for your model horse customizing projects. Now go paint ponies!

Primer Brands for Model Horse Customs

The arrival of a new pet is exciting for both you and your new family member. Here are some tips to get things off to a great start. The single most helpful thing you can do is to think of this time as a gradual, deliberate process, not a one time event. Adjust your schedule so that you can be home with your new pet for the first few days after arrival.

Things to Know if Your are Bringing a Pet Home


Weekends work great. Immediate free reign of your home can be overwhelming for some pets, especially ones coming from a shelter. Limit their access to a single room at first, with multiple options for things like water, resting spots, toys, and litter boxes. Then, as they are comfortable, gradually introduce them to new areas over the next week or two, one room at a time for just an hour at a time. Be sure each new area is pet safe, and restrict access to any off-limit areas. Limiting access to just a single room at first is also helpful for households with existing pets, for pets who aren't yet potty trained, and for most cats.


With cats, don't force interactions. They may choose to hide under a bed or other safe place for the first few days. This is completely normal. When introducing a newcomer to existing pets it's important to consider the personalities and temperaments of all pets involved. Laid back pets will more easily adapt to a newcomer than easily excitable ones. Adolescent dogs and senior cats can also be more challenging. If existing pets are territorial, or guard toys, keep them separated until the new pet is fully settled, which could be a few weeks.

When introducing a newcomer to an existing cat, wait until the resident cat lets you know they are ready before introducing them to a new housemate. Keep in mind that best friend status can take time and isn't possible for all pets, so keep your expectations realistic and be patient. Introducing a new pet to a house with children comes with its own challenges. Supervise all interactions at first, making sure your children know how to approach and touch pets properly. Discourage your kids from chasing or being chased by your new pet, and be sure they know how not to disturb them while eating, chewing, or sleeping.

Being able to identify your new pet's body language for signs of stress can also help both you and your children be sensitive to their new comfort level. The arrival of a new pet is an exciting time for everyone involved, but it's important to stay focused on your overall goal, establishing your new pet's home as a comfortable and safe place. Remember, it's a process. And when you bring your pet in for their first vet visit come prepared with questions, we love to help new pet parents however we can.

Things to Know if Your are Bringing a Pet Home

At McCann Dogs, I've had opportunity to help thousands of dog owners to train their dog. But long before I was a professional dog trainer, I was an under-prepared Labrador retriever owner. This is Deegan, my 15-year-old black lab. You can see Deegan's enjoying her favorite treat, a Kong filled with some peanut butter. Now, in my training experience, I had all of my time and focus and effort and attention on Deegan, but even at that, I made a lot of mistakes.

Now, as a professional dog trainer now, I often see students making these same mistakes. So in today's video, I'm gonna tell you the top 10 lessons that this Labrador retriever taught me about dog training so that you can avoid the mistakes that I made and really speed up your training. I'm Ken Steepe and welcome back to McCann Dogs. (guitar strumming) (dog barking) In the McCann Dogs training facility, we've helped more than 19,000 dog owners who are just like you to overcome their dog training challenges.

10 Dog Training Lessons that I Learned from Labrador Retriever


So if this is your first time on the channel, make sure you hit that subscribe button so that I can help you to have a well-behaved four-legged family member. I'm gonna take advantage of every opportunity that I can to do a video with my 15-year-old black lab. And in today's video, I'm gonna tell you about the 10 lessons that she taught me about dog training. And as a dog trainer now, I see people making these exact same mistakes and I want to help you to avoid some of these mistakes. And you're also gonna learn some tips that will help your dog to be more successful, help you to have a more enjoyable training session, and they're really gonna speed up your training process. It's really going to help your dog to understand what your expectations are. So let's jump into it. Here's number one: have high expectations.

The good news is, your dog is capable of a lot more than you think they are. The bad news is, your dog is capable of a lot more than you think they are. So when you're working with your dog, regardless of the breed, I want you to have high expectations and maintain them. Expect that through the training process your dog is going to stay when you ask them to, your dog is going to come when they call. This was something that was a real struggle for me to get the hang of, to really know that I could expect more of Deegan, if I was clear, consistent, and fair with her.


One of the most frustrating things I see on our channel is someone saying, "Oh, you could never teach a," insert your breed here, "to do that," to come when they're called, to sit and stay. I will tell you, after seeing thousands of dogs and thousands of dog owners, any breed is capable of success in their dog training. The key is your expectations. So keep those expectations high. Number two is really important. It's about management and using a house line for your dog. Now, that's something that I didn't do with Deegan. And if you don't know what a house line is, I'll put a link in the description below. You can check that out. But not being able to manage your dog in your busy household gives them so many opportunities to go do their own thing, gives them so many opportunities to make mistakes where you can't be there to give them the information. They can pick up a sock and run under the couch.

You know, this adorable black lab would always take laundry. She'd grab laundry, whether shirts, socks, pants, underwear, whatever, and then she'd go run around the living room with them. And I never had a great way to control that until I became a dog trainer and learned about the house line. And the value that I see in the house lines with all of our puppies now, with our students' dogs, it's a very powerful tool. And it really makes you seem like a dog training superhero. So use those house lines so you can give your dog great information in and around your home. Teach your out command early. Now, whether you have a puppy or you have a rehomed dog or maybe you're doing some retraining, get on top of that out command.

Because, especially for puppies, because they're gonna be making their way around your home, exploring the world with their mouths, and there's gonna be lots of times where you need a reliable out command. One of the secrets about the out command, though, is doing things like an engaging game of tug. You know, doing something with an interactive toy, bringing your dog into you, playing tug, and asking them to out. Right away, they learn about great leadership because you're controlling the game. Number two, that's a game, that tug game is a game that only happens when you're around. So they, it's engaging for them. But having an out command is really, really important. Now, especially for the fetch. If you have just a couple of minutes of time and you really wanna exercise your dog or do something fun with them, you can play fetch.

But don't let your fetch game look like mine initially did where Deegan would run out, grab the object, come back, and then satellite around me, just outside of arm's reach. So really teach your dog early what the out command means and it's a valuable skill and it'll really step up your leadership. Now, a critical mistake that a lot of dog owners make, and it something that I made, a mistake that I made, and she really exaggerated these mistakes for me, but be very careful about your timing with food reward, especially if you've got a food-motivated dog. Now, we've talked a little bit on the channel about timing and how to wean your way off of food, but in the beginning, you're gonna be using lots of food because it's a currency that your dog understands. Especially if you have a Labrador retriever.

But it's really important that you follow this formula. It's always cue, which is that word, stimulus, which is introduce the food, lure into whatever the position is, and then reward. If you're not careful, especially if you have a chow hound of a lab, and you introduce the food first, you put the food on their nose, that's the only thing that they can think about. So your cue now has become food on the nose and they're just thinking about that food. So it's always word, then introduce the food, make it happen, and then reward. Now, I touched on this a little bit earlier, but when your dog starts to have some skills, you know, when they're walking on a loose leash better, when they are remaining in that stay a little bit longer, it's really important that you're proofing, when you're proofing an exercise, that you add the appropriate amount of challenge to it. Now, this is a mistake that I made when she started to, she was always a puller on walks, and the worst was when we'd go up to the park and there were kids playing baseball and soccer.

And I started to get some, she started to remain in at my side, and I really pushed things too quickly. I brought her too close to those distractions, where she just couldn't help herself. She wanted to be the happy-go-lucky bouncy lab that we all love. But it was really tough for her to understand that it's important for her to remain in at my side and no amount of food at that point would get her back on me. So I needed to use my leash and redirect her. But I've actually got this slide that I'm gonna show you. Now, there's a zone, you'll start to learn that your dog has a zone where they're unaffected by distractions. And then there's a point that you get to that your dog will, is absolutely going to fail. They will 100% fail and pull on your leash.

But there's a threshold area where your dog is likely to be successful and if you're really on top of things, you're going to be able to teach them to choose you instead of the those distractions. And that is where the magic happens. So take your time when it comes to adding distractions and really help your dog to be successful. You know, as a dog trainer, as you as the dog trainer with your dog, if your dog's made two mistakes, you can't let them make another mistake. They don't understand. They've shown you that they don't really get it yet. So really make an effort to help them to be successful by reducing the distance, by reducing the distraction, or reducing the duration, whichever one of those things you've started to increase so that you can reward your dog and really remind them what your expectation is and what work it is that's going to be rewarded. In saying that, take advantage of natural training opportunities.

There's going to be a million of them, especially if you're a puppy owner. There's going to be all sorts of things that come up in everyday life that are a great opportunity to teach your dog, reinforce for your dog a skill you're working on. Maybe it is response to name. Maybe you're out with your dog, or your puppy, and you're walking around in your yard or the area where you take them out to go potty, and you see they're a little bit distracted. Call their name. You know, take advantage of that natural distraction and call their name, and if you're in training mode, if you have a puppy who's training in your house, always keep some food or keep some rewards in your pocket in case your puppy makes a great choice. But especially when you're in training mode, be prepared to follow up. So if your puppy doesn't respond, you know, repeat their name, guide them away, and then try it again with less distraction.

Maybe while they're focused on you, repeat their name and reward them. But these natural training opportunities are how you're going to start to integrate your training, integrate the skills into the real world. But you need to be thinking like a trainer the entire time. So when you have that young dog in training or that puppy in training, take advantage of these natural training opportunities as they occur. Now, whether you have a Labrador retriever or any other breed, the retrieve, working on a retrieve with your dog, playing fetch, is a very, very valuable skill. Not only is it a great skill to burn off energy in a short period of time, but it's a great way to build some engagement in a relationship with your dog.

Now, a lot of people struggle with the same things that I struggled with, things that I mentioned a little bit earlier in the video, with their dog coming in so close and then sort of hovering around them. We have a video on the channel that I want you to check out, I'll link it in the description, that will teach your dog that all of the value of the retrieve game is when they get back to you, making it an engaging experience so that it involves both of you. But teaching your dog a retrieve. And this is something we'll do with a puppy, if you have a puppy at home, set up part of your hallway, or some non-distracting environment where you can be sure that the puppy only has one option, it's to come to you.

But work on the retrieve. You know, the amount of puppies, energy that puppies have, you'll want extra little things you can do throughout your day that will burn some of that energy off. And if you do have a Labrador retriever or a golden retriever or any of the retrievers, it's something that they will naturally want to do and you want to take advantage of that. Make training fun by adding a retrieve into your training sessions. Now, an important part of taking advantage of natural training opportunities is to not test too early. You're thinking like a dog trainer. Now, I would never have a young puppy out without a line on or a leash on and call come because they have an opportunity to make a mistake.

And I wouldn't have any way to follow up to help them to be right. This is definitely something I did with Deegan far too early. I was testing her stay with really tough distractions without a line on, I clearly remember doing that in the house because I wanted to show off how cool it was that my dog could stay, and then she failed miserably. But especially with things like your come command, you're gonna remove that word from your vocabulary unless you're training it. So you're not testing your dog. You've got, maybe you're a couple dog training classes in or you've watched a few videos here on the channel and you're working on your recall. Don't call come unless you're sure your dog is going to turn or you're ready to help train them to help them to be right. Most important thing that Deegan taught me was to put the time in early.

Now, Deegan was two years old when I started training with her. By that time, she had a lot of opportunities to make bad choices, to learn bad habits. It's going to be a lot of work. It's going to be frustrating sometimes, it's going to be incredibly joyous sometimes. And sometimes you're gonna wonder if you have any idea what you're doing. But I waited until Deegan was two years old. She'd had so many opportunities to learn the wrong things, you know, make bad choices, be rewarded by making mistakes, chewing on stuff and whatever that might be for your dog, but you know, the puppies I have trained since, all of the puppies that we train in our school, these dogs have an opportunity to only get good information. So invest the six, eight months that you're going to invest into getting your dog to be that well-behaved dog who listens all the time, and it will pay dividends for eight, 12, maybe even 15 years of their life.

And it is so, so worth it. That initial relationship building is something that, even with Deegan at two years old, you know, I really look back fondly on those days. A really important way to speed up your training and build a stronger relationship with your dog is by being a great leader. Click that card right there to make sure that you aren't accidentally being a bad leader for your dog. If this is your first time on the channel, make sure you hit that subscribe button. We publish new videos every single week to help you to have a well-behaved four-legged family member. On that note, I'm Ken, this is Deegan, happy training.

10 Dog Training Lessons that I Learned from Labrador Retriever

Hello, I'm Alex from Sense Equine and today I am going to be doing a second part to the poultice video that was shared yesterday. The way I am going to show you today, is the way that I have been shown. It is the way I have been advised. Things you will need: a pair of scissors, a nappy, duct tape or similar, a poultice dressing. So what I'm going to do is cut my duct tape into sections I'm going to do the strips with about... I dunno... about four or five strips and I'm gonna place them horizontally and then vertically across my leg.

How to Poultice a Horse's Hoof with a Nappy or Diaper


I'm going to show you how to do this in a minute. The idea is that you're making, basically, a boot out of the tape itself, so when you put the poultice on the hoof, you then cover it with the vet wrap or the nappy and then we put this hoof boot that we've made out of the tape over the top. It's just a very quick and simple way of doing it. It means that if your horse wants to then put its foot down on the ground it can do so, it's nicely covered and it's going to keep all of the wetness and any dirt out of that dressing so I'm going to show you how to do that right now.

So, Duke is rearing to go! ...Well not literally... but he's ready to come out and get his dressing changed, so I'm going to bring him out now and show you how to do a poultice with a nappy! I have the poultice in one hand and the nappy ready in the other. I ask him to lift his leg up and rest it on my leg. I hold the foot by the toe if I need to. My poultice, I put shiny side up over the area. I get my nappy and open that up. I very much put it around the hoof, like a baby's bottom! I let him have a rest on my leg again.


The next thing I do is get the tape which is on my leg. I then put it on the base of the hoof and gently wrap it around. Then I gently allow him to put his foot down. So we've got the nappy around the foot, we then have to tape around the nappy. And finally...we wrap the tape around there. Duke's a little bit fidgety today, he's been in for the best part of a week, on box rest. His abscess wasn't the usual kind, which is unfortunate for my poor boy!

It was a suspected keratoma, although now we suspect it was an abscess which was slightly higher up in the hoof. So he's ready to go out in the field! I want to make sure there's a little gap behind here, so it's nice and comfortable for him when he moves his leg. I want to make sure that the tape is covering the whole of the nappy. The nappy is providing a nice bit of cushioning to the foot, it is also going to keep any bacteria and water out and off the poultice dressing. I'm allowing some space at the back here so my horse can move his foot and he can be comfortable - so we don't want that too tight. As you can see, it's not the most beautiful thing in the world! But it's going to be functional and it is going to do the job.

So there you have it! How to change a poultice with a nappy! Super simple, super easy. Don't worry too much about how it looks, the most important thing is that it's functional that it's going to keep your horse's hoof nice and dry and clean; we don't need it to look like perfectly wrapped presents! I am a horse trainer, not a vet, but this is how I have been shown, how I have been taught, how to do a poultice. It's especially useful to know that there are other items you can use; other normal household items that can help you change this dressing. 

How to Poultice a Horse's Hoof with a Nappy or Diaper

Hello, my name is Whitney. I'm one of the certified trainers here and I'm here with Jen our training manager. So, today we are back with some more recall games. Ditch the Dog and Recall into Finish Position. We will also be using the help of Leo the pug today.

Most Important Dog Training Tips | Ditch the Dog and Recall to Finish


All right so before we get started with our two recall games today, just a couple reminders to keep in mind. So recall is coming when called consistently so it's important to practice recall in low distraction environments and really strengthen the skill before you bring it out to higher distraction environments like outside or at a park. So a couple factors that influence the success of your recall. Your body position.

So what are you doing with your body when you're calling your dog to you? If you're leaning forward or reaching towards them, moving towards them, some of those postures can be considered intimidating for dogs and it makes it less likely for the dog to want to come to you. So instead you can do sort of some less intimidating postures.


So turn to the side, crouch down, move away, patch your legs, stuff like that and that's gonna make your dog more likely to want to come to you. Another really important thing to keep in mind with recall is that recall is an essential skill. It can really save your dog's life some day. In case they ran out of the front door, or in front of a car, something like that. Having a strong recall can bring them back to you and keep them safe.

So for ditch the dog, what you're going to do is use your everyday recall cue and for Leo's is going to be come and so I will say come and then take several steps away from him. Once he gets to me I'm going to reward with a couple treats.

So that gets your dog used to following you, coming with you when your moving, stuff like that. - [Whitney] So I'm gonna go ahead and start with ditch the dog using his everyday recall cue come. Leo, come, yes good boy. Good job. Come, yes, good boy Leo. Is a kibble. Come, yes, good job. And so just like that, could be a really fun game for you and your dog. So ditch the dog is a fun game that you can play in the backyard or in your house or any environment.

But make sure it's a low distraction environment first and then work your way up to more distracting environments. So the second game that we're gonna play is called recall into finish position and so that's all about training a nice finish position at the end of Leo's recall. So we don't want Leo to run over to us and then jump up on us or something like that, we want a nice behavior like a sit so that's what we're gonna be asking from Leo today.

So I'm gonna use that same game that Whitney just used ditch the dog but I'm gonna add another element to it and so this is gonna be recall into finish position. So instead of Leo just running over to me, when he gets to me I'm gonna ask for a nice finish behavior so that's gonna be a sit in his case. So we use this with dogs who sometimes get really overexcited so they're excited to come to you, they come over to you, and they jump up on you.

So instead of reinforcing a jumping behavior or something like that we want to build a nice default sit. Okay, so Leo's recall into finish position is gonna be a sit so I'm gonna make sure he's got a sit. Sit, good. So he's got a nice little sit, so that's what I'm gonna use. So I'm gonna run away from him, call him over to me using his everyday call cue which is come, he's visiting Whitney over there. I'm gonna call him back to me and then when he gets to me I'm gonna ask for a sit and I'm gonna reinforce that. I'm gonna do that a couple times. Sit, good, and then I'm going to not ask for the sit and I'm gonna see if he'll do it just as a default.

Ready, come, good boy, sit, yes, so good. Ready, come, sit, good, good boy. Ready, come, sit, good. So he's doing a great job giving me sit so this time I'm just gonna freeze and then see if he'll give me a default sit. Ready, come, good. So he did, good little boy. Ready, come, good, very good. So now he's got a nice little recall into finish position here. Come, good, good, Leo. So that was a little game that we call recall into finish position. So you don't have to use a sit with that you could use any behavior that's comfortable for your dog that you want to reinforce at the end of their recall.

Most Important Dog Training Tips | Ditch the Dog and Recall to Finish

Hello again After my recent video about how to store eggs for eating during the winter lots of people asked me whether I washed the eggs before putting them in the fridge. No, I didn't and that's not because I'm lazy It's because the best way to make sure an egg is clean and stays clean and fresh is not to wash it. And if that sounds odd, let me explain.

Should You Wash Eggs before Eating | Big Mistake of All


Eggs come naturally with a protective layer called a cuticle on the outside of the shell. A couple of years ago some high-powered research by scientists at the universities of Edinburgh and Glasgow finally answered some of the questions about this cuticle, like when and where it comes from - the answer is the cuticle is made in the shell gland. And whether the cuticle has any relationship to the shell pigment - No, it doesn't. Eggshell has lots of tiny pores in it, which allow oxygen to pass through the shell.

This is essential if the egg is to be nourishment for a developing chick inside. But those pores can let in not only oxygen but also bacteria and inside the protein-rich egg, bacteria would grow and multiply quickly, rotting the egg and killing any baby chick inside. Not what the mother bird or hen had in mind at all. So the outside of the egg has a tiny invisible shield of protection called the cuticle. The cuticle allows oxygen to pass through the pores of the shell but keeps bacteria out.


Water birds like ducks tend to make their nests in damp mucky places, and they coat their eggs with a really thick strong cuticle to provide the egg with maximum protection. Budgies who come from hot dry climates where bacteria don't grow very well anyway don't bother with a cuticle on their egg at all. And hens are somewhere in between. The cuticle on hens eggs is a light invisible protective coating. The cuticle is still liquid when the egg is first laid but within a few minutes it dries to an invisible protective layer.

So if your hen naturally lays her egg with an invisible protective shield why would you want to wash it off and expose the egg to any bacteria in the environment? Well, did you know that most of the commercially sold eggs in the United States are washed and that natural protective layer is replaced by an artificial coating? It's a long story as to why that is. Let me explain. It's all about a nasty bacteria called Salmonella.

Chickens can be infected with salmonella and if eggs come into contact with their bacteria-laden poop, the bacteria eventually bypass the cuticle and get into the egg. In the big commercial egg factories with thousands of chickens, it's not uncommon for this to happen. So the United States Department of Agriculture made a rule that all eggs sold commercially must be washed. Now, this is no simple swish around in the soapy water. The water must be 90 degrees Fahrenheit - that's 32 degrees Celsius.

And the water must be at least 20 degrees Fahrenheit warmer than the internal temperature of the egg being washed. If this temperature differential is not maintained bacteria from outside the egg could be sucked straight inside the egg instead of being washed off. The wash liquid contains some detergent And it's essential that the egg is quickly removed from the wash liquid, then rinsed in the warm water spray containing a chemical sanitizer such as chlorine. Then dried within a very few minutes so that dirty wash liquid itself doesn't contaminate the egg.

And then the egg may be coated with some kind of artificial coating such as mineral oil because without its cuticle the egg loses its freshness faster. And from then on the eggs must be kept perfectly refrigerated right up until you eat them. As I said all of this is about protecting the American egg consumer from the risks of salmonella food poisoning but in spite of all that there are still about a hundred and forty thousand cases of salmonella food poisoning in the United States each year. In contrast to the United States rule, in Europe.

It's actually illegal to wash eggs that will be sold to the public. That means the cuticle of the egg stays intact and it also encourages farmers to make sure that their hen houses and therefore the eggs are kept nice and clean because nobody wants to buy a dirty looking egg. That's good for the chickens, and it's good for us. And does it work? Does leaving the cuticle on the egg actually protect the consumer from the risks of food poisoning? Well, it seems like it does. Even though eggs in European supermarkets are not refrigerated there are very few cases of salmonella food poisoning related to eggs in Europe.

And in the last 20 years eggs have been considered very safe indeed - even safe enough to eat raw. Have a look at my video about the risks or not of eating raw eggs. It's not really a fair comparison between European and American rates of egg related salmonella food poisoning because in Europe it's a requirement that chicken farmers vaccinate their hens against Salmonella and that's not the case in America. However in America more and more chicken farmers are deciding voluntarily to vaccinate their chickens, and so the risk of getting Salmonella from American commercially-laid eggs are getting lower all the time.

So do I wash the eggs from my chickens? No, I don't. If I got the occasional egg that was particularly dirty I might wipe it clean and I would certainly use that egg promptly before any bacteria had a chance to multiply, but I would never wash away that protective cuticle layer, not only because it's tricky to do safely and effectively, but also because it seems to be more effective to simply leave that cuticle layer intact, with its natural invisible layer of protection. And I think you should too.

Should You Wash Eggs before Eating | Big Mistake of All

Do you love photography ? If yes then pet animals are good option to take mind blowing pictures. If you have some pet animals then it is golden opportunity to take expensive photos of your pet animals or with your pets. So first of all you need to know all these tips and techniques to take mind blowing photos with pet animals.


In this article we have included best photography tips for pet lovers. If you love photography then you need to take some photos with your pet animals. It will make a new way of photography in your life. If you will know about some genius photographers then you can know that they love pet animals and you can also find so many pictures with pets.

Best Photography Tips for Pet Lovers


To take best photos with pet animals you need to follow these tips. You can use these techniques with any pet animal. These techniques are common for all type of animal.

  • Always move slowly
  • Be quiet
  • Create a concept and a shot list
  • Pay your model
  • Go where the light is best
  • Be flexible and do some stretching first
  • Shoot in their world
  • Get rid of clutter first
  • Focus on eyes and expressions
  • Always take photos in relax mode.

Best Photography Tips for Pet Lovers

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